The Road Less Traveled: A look at Iran, Colombia, Pakistan, and Israel
Today I have a guest blog submission from Giles Smith of Travel Independent.info. Giles is a British national who has been through close to 100 countries in the last 5 years alone. He is now based in Zurich, where he manages Travel Independent.info, a site that is literally packed with practical travel information, including everything from visas and immunizations, to handy tips on getting around, where to go, and how to do it all responsibly.
I have asked Giles to share his insight on some of the lesser known travel destinations around the world, namely Iran, Pakistan, Colombia, and Israel.
Travel and independent travel in particular is a scary thought to many, even to those who have made a few trips already. It’s obvious why. Turn on your TV, surf the web, listen to the radio – it’s a scary world out there, apparently the world hates Americans and isn’t too fond of many other nationalities either. It appears that extremists are taking over and any Islamic country is comparable to the Sunni Triangle. I know most intelligent individuals won’t believe the hype, but it’s difficult not to buy into it to some degree and give many destinations a wide berth – several of which in my view are some of most impressive (hidden) travel destination gems on earth. I’d list these as Iran, Colombia, Pakistan and Israel all of which I have had the good fortunate to visit over the last few years and can testify, if tackled correctly sticking to main tourist sites are safe, civilized, welcoming and stunning, not to mention culturally fantasizing and traveller gold!
It’s amazing that such a traveler’s gem can induce so much fear in so many people. Give it a try: mention you are even thinking of going to Iran to friends and relatives and watch the reaction. Listen to them speak… ‘but there are terrorists’ (no that’s a global problem), ‘but women are second class citizens’ (no that’s Saudi Arabia - there are actually more women than men in University education), ‘didn’t they blow up those Buddhist statutes’ (no, that was the Taliban in Afghanistan)… it goes on. The ignorance Iran inspires can almost be painful. Even well traveled individuals get slightly nervous at even the name. There is absolutely no reason to be. The problem stems from many sources. First up is that most of us know nothing about Iran other than what we heard about the revolution and what a strict Islamic government chooses to present to us. The other error we all make is filling in the gaps ourselves. Iraq to the left, Pakistan and Afghanistan to the right (humm, not exactly the most instantly appealing destinations), it’s natural to assume Iran is somewhere in the middle. The reality is that even the most widely travelled and open-minded visitor is likely to have preconceived views shattered and find a country that truly is a marvel.
Expect some of the most welcoming and truly hospitable people in the world (although that term is used far too often, here it is appropriate). Expect open-minded individuals who are about a millions miles away from religious fanatics who will be delighted to further your surprise in finding out the true nature of the place and go out of their way to help you. Expect some of the best value travel in the world. Expect virtually no hassle. Expect to feel extremely safe and welcomed and finally, expect to find a country where you can walk beside beautiful mountains streams below towering snow caps (even go skiing) one day, forests and rice paddies the next, harsh deserts the next and historic oases the next… the list goes on. Safe, civilized, cheap and reasonably efficient Iran is one of the last hidden gems of this nature. There is too much to share in a small intro like this so if you are even thinking about going it’s best to pick up the excellent LP for some more reading.
Not to be missed: Esfahan, Masule, Yazd, forgotten and well preserved history and atmospheric bazaars & tea shops where you will be the center of attention with seemly everyone wanting to be your friend.
To be missed: Getting a visa can be a real hassle and it’s best to use a service from a company like www.key2persia.com – if you travel on an American passport this is going to be very tough without a tour, but not impossible. Girls you will need to cover up, but this is really no big deal. You will find more details on getting a visa and acceptable dress on Travel Independent’s Iran page. While not essential it is best to avoid a visit to Chogo Zambil (a huge pyramid) which is in the area along side Iraq and the country’s religion capital Qom.
Colombia has to be one of the most beautiful countries on earth. Think mountains meeting the sea, deserted beaches from two oceans, rolling hill and vast plains of coffee plantations – it’s also fairly vacant of tourists. Most travellers debate long and hard about visiting Colombia, finding only negative comments on the net, posted by those who have not visited. Those that have visited normally feel Colombia should not be missed, but will advise: just don’t get carried away exploring off the beaten track - Colombia is not like other Latin American countries with large sections controlled by very nasty, unpredictable rebel groups. Certainly violent crime and bus hold ups are more common than elsewhere in the Americas. Nevertheless by sailing/flying into Cartagena and traveling to Ecuador or vice-versa, with commonsense, it is unlikely you will have any problems other than the all present threat of theft – so travel light and in the day, talk to locals and watch your belongings! Both Lonely Planet and Footprint have excellent guidebooks and can steer you in the right direction. Safety has improved dramatically over the last few years and 2006 was one of the best years for internal and external tourism. Colombia is civilized and in places simply spectacular.
Not to be missed: Cartagena old town, San Agustin, Zona Cafetera north of Cali, Sierra Nevada and limited tourists.
To be missed: Continued kidnappings make many rural areas unsafe, and travellers are advised to avoid excursions that include Choco, Putumayo, Meta and Caqueta and the rural areas of Antioquia, Cauca, Narino, and Norte de Santander.
How to describe Pakistan? If you want a one-worder then you need no more than three letters: WOW. India without the hassle, Nepal without the crowds. Then again it’s a little more complicated than that and probably more than any other country on the planet your opinion will depend on what part(s) you see. Whereas the three letters of ‘wow’ is undoubtedly the impression most will have visiting Northern areas, others might be forgiven for thinking of a few four letter words after making trips through the south of the country where travel is quite different. Pakistan’s main attractions are the mind boggling market town of Peshawar and the amazing, stunning and accessible jagged mountain scenery in the far north. Few travellers venture to Pakistan – it even seems to have become a bad word on traveller circuits. A poor media image, tension with India, terrorism, earthquakes, poverty… it’s quite clear why so many neglect it, particularly with the likes of India and Nepal on its doorstep. Shame.
Not to be missed: The main feature and highlight of Pakistan is the Karakoram Highway (KKH) which neither crosses the Karakoram Pass nor is anything close to a smooth highway. This incredibly useful road is the only dependable overland route between China and the Subcontinent. Originating in Islamabad and terminating in Kashgar, China, the KKH is something that every traveller should aspire to see. The area often referred to as Pakistani Kashmir (incl. the Gilgit province in the far north) is a great place to hang-out, walk, cycle or simply look dumbstruck out of a bus/jeep window. It’s brilliantly accessible from the KKH with 7000+ meter peaks and glaciers practically by the road side. Away from the KKH, to name a few highlights - Islamabad is about the gentlest introduction to the continent you could get. Women travellers will notice considerably less hassle in the north.
Not to be missed (but then again maybe – the following places are in tribal controlled areas and while typically safe some may wish to avoid): Peshawar is a photogenic, hectic meddle of cultures and people – it’s also the jumping point for the a trip up the Khyber Pass and a view of Afghanistan. Spots like the Kalash valley in the Hindu Kush are stunning and culturally fascinating. The north is a patchwork of languages and culture (40% are tolerant Muslim) that change from one town to the next with few locals thinking of themselves as Pakistani. Steep mountains and deep valleys make travel awe inspiring.
To be missed: The rest of Pakistan is not quite such a dream. Lahore and the area directly below Islamabad can be loosely compared to India and are not of great interest. Further south the tone of the country changes. Ancient wonders can be hard to appreciate and the heat is oppressive as the country and the people begin to change. Islamic tones are stronger and cities like Karachi are inherently violent and not a place for backpackers. Pakistan has several areas of instability and possible danger which you should avoid. Here’s a quick summary: Off the beaten track near the Line of control aka Kashmir, Balochistan - this region encompasses most of the south-west of the country, Karachi and the Sindh - a small square region surrounding Karachi, bordering India. Not a place for travellers, to be avoided, intense communal violence. Karachi airport is safe enough, but it’s best to jump straight on a cheap internal flight to Islamabad or Lahore. The North West Frontier Province- commonly known as the NWFP, the area bordering Afghanistan from around Peshawar north to China. For more details see the Pakistani summary information page on Travel Independent.
While it would be easy to wax lyrical about the fascinating and currently very out of vogue countries that border Israel: Lebanon, Syria, Jordon and Egypt, all of which I would recommended highly – the focus of this article shouldn’t be predominately on Islamic countries. Israel, as a multi-religious and at times downright secular country has been off the mainstream travelers map for some time now as tensions simmer and often boil over with it’s neighbors and occupied territories. Visitors to Israel virtually stopped during the last nadir, but things have started to stabilize a little and tourist numbers have climbed. The Palestinian elections, Hamas’ victory, a subsequent suicide bomb in Tel Aviv - Israeli retaliation, missiles from Lebanon and it’s business as usual again? Who knows, but it’s easy to understand why many are a little nervous about visiting. Coupled with this Israel can be a little raw and unwelcoming, but does nevertheless contain one of the world’s most incredible places: Jerusalem. Jerusalem and it’s surroundings is quite simply amazing and worth braving terrorist attacks for any day. Don’ t let terrorism scare you, the risks of injury is far below most bus travel in Asia. Many of Israel’s sights will blow your mind, when reflected on. Tel Aviv has a laid-back beach culture to rival Sydney or Rio and like many cities is mainly secular: great parties, bars, hot guys/girls, great set of hostels… - all things you might not of expected. This new country is fascinating to get an understanding of and has a history like no other.
What not to miss: Jerusalem. Few places in the world inspire quite as much passion as Jerusalem (Yerushalayim in Hebrew, Al-Quds in Arabic), the 3000-year-old capital of Israel. Tel Aviv has a lot to offer if you have time to kick back and there a many other notable sites in the north and along the Dead Sea.
What to miss: That passport stamp which makes visiting many other Islamic countries impossible on the same passport. Gaza is now firmly off limits and while many report very positive experiences in the West Bank most more feel comfortable avoiding it or minimizing their travel through it.
Summary/Conclusion:
Remember, where ever you go in the world: developed or developing; Jewish, secular, Islamic or whatever you should always do your own research, travel with commonsense and stay aware of current events. It’s easy even in the most popular travels destinations to find yourself in the wrong place if you travel total unaware and off a well beaten track. Remember there is nothing big, brave or exciting about risking your well-being heading into regions of any country where really it’s best to avoid.
And lastly, a word to the wise… don’t judge something from second/third hand reports. Notions of whole populations out to get you when you step of the plane are ridiculous, American or not (say you are Canadian if it really makes you feel better – no one will care. For the record I’m British, then again it’s where you are at not where you are from). Free your mind, it works like a parachute – much better when open!
For more information on all the above destination (plus about 70 others) you are referred to Travel Independent . Info. You will also find a lot of information for more ‘normal’ destinations and advice to get you started on any trip. What to pack, where to go, before you go and just about everything you might need to know if you are setting off, particularly if for the first time.
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Very nice piece on Israel. I started a blog about life in Tel Aviv, for now it is focused on tourists, not the traditional kind as much as the ones who come and stay for two weeks to a few months. In the blog (http://israeltomorrow.blogspot.com) you will find reviews of hotels, restaurants, shops and events. Since we have started about a month ago seriously, we covered about 30 places.
As far as the political situation goes, it’s hard to judge how things are going in everyday terms. Tel Aviv is probably the safest city I have ever been and today there is more security here than most airports in the US. But that doesn’t matter as much as how you feel in walking down the street and having a coffee with people… keep on travelin’ //AmiV
Check out Drive-Israel.com for mapped routes and highlighted sights to see along the way, including the new boutique wineries, goat and sheep cheese farms, ethnic craft studios, monasteries with olive oil and wine production, hot air ballooning, star safaris in the desert, caving and jeeping trips - great stuff going on in Israel.